The Welches are on the move again! This time to Belize. Although the country is located firmly within Central America, if you weren’t aware of that fact, you would’ve thought you were in the Caribbean when you arrived! Belize feels less like a Latin American country, and more like a Caribbean one; from the food to the accents/broken English Creole spoken to the laidback vibes. Here are some interesting facts about the country:
- It is home to the world’s second-largest barrier reef, the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef System
- The country used to be called British Honduras but changed its name to Belize in 1973 (only about 50 years ago!). It was actually a British colony until 1981. I still can’t believe this happened so recently!
- The only country in Central America that has English as its official language.
- A culinary delicacy in the country is a rodent called, gibnut; also called the “royal rat” because it was served to Queen Elizabeth.
- There aren’t any traditional fast-food places like Burger King, KFC, or McDonald’s there.
We thought about staying a day in Belize City and planned to stay at the Golden Bay Belize Hotel (which is close to the pier) but decided to just spend the week in Ambergris Caye soaking up the sun and sea. I would love to return and spend some time on the mainland. Topping my list would be going to Hopkins to experience more of the Garifuna culture; spending a day in Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM), a recently discovered Maya archaeological site housing ancient artifacts; and, crossing the border by land into Guatemala to see Tikal, one of the largest archeological sites of Maya civilization. There are also the Mayan ruins at Altun Ha as well as opportunities for cave tubing, zip lining, rock climbing, and ATVing.
It’ll be easy to return as JetBlue now flies direct from JFK to BZE. However, since this flight was a bit pricy for the time period we went (the kids’ winter break), we booked a flight on American Airlines with a layover in Miami (and was able to upgrade to business class).
After arriving in BZE airport, there are two ways to get to the islands (in our case Ambergris Caye): plane or boat. We were already at the airport, so we figured we would fly to make our lives easier (especially since we were travelling with a toddler). It was about $100/way for a 15-minute flight while the ferry is $31/way via Belize Water Taxi and takes about 90 minutes. We took Maya Air both times, however, there seemed to be a lot more Tropic Air planes than Maya (based on what we saw). And even though we were on time for our flight both ways, it was delayed about an hour each time so prepare yourself accordingly!
Hotel: We stayed at the Las Terrazas Resort after eliminating some others (Mahogany Bay Resort, Diamante Beachfront Suites, Hol Chan Reef Resort & Villas, and Lighthouse Beach Villas). The hotel picked us up from the airport and after a short car ride, we were then transferred to a boat for a 7-minute ride to the resort. We later realized that the hotel could’ve just driven us the entire way but may have been trying to avoid all of the traffic in downtown San Pedro (or just wanted to appear more exclusive).
Although our stay there started off a bit rocky (e.g., had to change rooms the day after unpacking everything; tub didn’t work in our original room; one of the girls at the front desk was unhelpful; mistakenly charged my credit card twice for the room), we ended up having a great week-long stay there. We had a spacious 3-bedroom equipped with an oven, fridge, microwave, dishwasher and washing machine, and easy access to the hotel’s infinity pool and beach where we could use kayaks, small catamarans, paddle boards, and water bikes free of charge.
Transportation: There are very few cars on the island because everyone gets around by golf cart! Taxis are really expensive (like $40US one way) so renting a golf cart is a must, especially if you are not staying in town. We reserved ahead of time using Rio Belize Golf Cart Rental. The process was quick and painless, the golf cart was super easy to operate, and the streets were incredibly easy to navigate (albeit a bit bumpy).
Restaurants: We experienced a few different restaurants around the island during our stay.
Estel’s by the Sea: We dined here for breakfast one morning and I would highly recommend it! It is located right by the water close to the water taxi dock. We were seated quickly but it gets busy, especially if you want a seat close to the water. I had the Mayan breakfast which consisted of a choice of meat (ham, bacon or sausage), eggs any style cooked with onions and peppers, and a fry jack (i.e., fried dough) along with a bean sauce. It was absolutely incredibly flavorful and filling. My oldest son Avery ordered the stuffed fry jacks which were so good that he ended up ordering another serving! My youngest son CJ had pancakes which were actually sweet enough without syrup (and as big as his head!).
Mesa Bistro: We ate here for breakfast and it was sooooo good. Although we were the only patrons there when we went, we didn’t have to wait too long for our food and the staff was very attentive to our needs. I had a cranberry pomegranate tea mimosa with the breakfast tacos that I could eat everyday if I could! My husband Will had the coconut French toast which he said were perfect and not too sweet.
Blue Water Grill: We also had breakfast here, but it wasn’t worth it at all. The food seemed very Americanized (nothing local or authentic on the menu) and the taste of what we did order was pretty bland and unmemorable.
Tres Cocos: We passed this restaurant a few times during our stay so we decided to try it for our last breakfast on the island. They had a few unique offerings, including an eggs benedict waffle with pulled pork. I’m a sucker for an eggs benedict so I ordered that and it was good… except for the hollandaise sauce which was broken and too thick. Avery had the stuffed fry jack and Will had waffles stuffed with chicken which they both said was just mediocre. Note: the restaurant only accepts cash so make sure to have some handy if you eat here!
O Restaurant: Located at our hotel, we had dinner here twice because of its convenient location. While the cocktails were mediocre (only the old fashioned was pure perfection!), the food was hit or miss. The shrimp piccata was so amazing that I had it twice. Will’s steak was originally very under done but after they refired it, he said it was delicious. Avery had the pork tenderloin which he practically devoured in one bite. CJ had the ribs which were falling off of the bone and the mashed potatoes which were creamy and buttery. The one dish that I wouldn’t recommend is the seafood chowder which was less of a chowder and more of a soup; very watery and way too heavy on the veggies without much seafood (the total opposite of what you would want in a chowder!)
Caramba: Located in San Pedro town, this restaurant was fantastic and I highly recommend it. Despite its steep price, we almost ended up back there again for our last dinner (but could only get really late reservations so decided against it). When we did go, we had 7pm reservations but arrived an hour early. Although the place was packed, they were able to accommodate us and we were seated pretty quickly. The menu is extremely extensive with pages and pages of seafood prepared different ways. If you are a seafood lover, this is the place for you!
The biggest draw of the restaurant is that you can mix and match the seafood that you want (both in terms of type and preparation). We went outside where they had an array of fresh seafood for us to select from: lobster, snow crab, calamari, snapper, and HUGE tiger shrimp. Once we selected what we wanted, we chose HOW we wanted each item prepared (e.g., garlic butter, cajun seasoning, fried, etc.).
I started off the meal with a tamarind mojito which was super refreshing. We had conch fritters and crab cakes as an appetizer and I am happy to report that it wasn’t bready.
Although it took a while for the food to arrive since everything is prepared fresh, it was worth the wait. The snapper literally melted in my mouth. I still dream about that snapper to this day! It also came with two sides, so I ordered the rice and potato salad. Everything was top notch. Even Avery who ordered the steak said it was amazing (although it looked a little pale to me).
Truck Stop: It isn’t really a restaurant but is Belize’s first shipping container food truck. There are 4 food trucks (Mexican, Asian, pizza, and ice cream), a bar, and a live band (among other entertainment options). We tried the dumplings and pad Thai from the Asian food truck and the meat lovers pizza from the pizza truck. Although the food was just mediocre, the vibes from the band made up for it. Since we couldn’t get any seating, we didn’t have as much time as we would’ve liked to enjoy the band but did enjoy what we were able to see.
Rain restaurant: This restaurant was located a few minutes from our hotel. After initially seeing the rooftop terrace location, we wish we made our reservations a tad earlier to catch the sunset! The place was pretty full when we arrived at 7pm (which we thought was a good sign). However, we should’ve known something was awry when the drinks took about 15 minutes to arrive and table bread took 40 minutes to arrive. We received our appetizers of lobster dip, lobster fritters, and the firecracker shrimp about an hour after we were seated and none of it had any taste. The waiter then came over and said it would be another 45 minutes for our entree because the kitchen was backed up serving two restaurants (very odd). During that time, we saw a couple of tables get up and leave. We were about to as well, but they said they could now expedite our food since tables had left. When the entrees arrived, we knew we should’ve followed our first instinct and left. Avery’s pork chop was overdone, my risotto didn’t look like risotto (nor did it taste like it), and Will’s ribs were extremely under seasoned. This was supposed to be one of the best (and most expensive) restaurants on the island but fell completely flat and was very disappointing.
Garifuna Cultural Center: This restaurant was high on my list. Although we were told to get there for 5pm, it should’ve been more like 6pm because the place was empty when we arrived. We started with banana fritters and chicken wings and then for our main courses, we had the combo hudut (a traditional dish made with fresh coconut milk and lots of seafood) and oxtail which were both very good. There was live drumming, dancing, and a lecture of sorts about the Garifuna people and culture. It was a culturally enriching experience and would highly recommend!
Activities: While we didn’t partake in my usual jam-packed itinerary, we enjoyed a few activities during our time on the island.
Belizean Bites Lunch Tour with Belize Food Tours: I love starting my vacation with a food tour since it is a good way to get to know an area. This one was $52/person and was worth every penny. The entire tour was about 2.5 hours and a great way to start the trip. We met the group in the heart of San Pedro Town in Central Park. There were 6 stops total with the first stop at The Fry Jack House where we had two kinds of fry jack (one savory and one sweet).
Next, we walked to Brianna’s to try Belize’s national dish (stew chicken with rice and beans and coleslaw). It reminded us of Caribbean food that we are used to eating so that was a nice reminder of home 🙂
Then we had a rum tasting at Saul’s Cigars & Coffee. There, we had shots of three different flavored rums: coffee, chocolate, and coconut. The flavors felt familiar and were enjoyed by all of legal drinking age 🙂
After that, it was time for more food. At Original #1 Pupuseria Salvadoreno, we had pupusas (tortillas stuffed with ingredients) accompanied by a rum punch.
The fifth stop was El Fogon (a restaurant I already had on my list because they specialize in authentic Belizean food cooked by firewood in the open). We had a conch fritter and chicken salbutes (a crispy fried tortilla shaped like a disc filed with shredded chicken, tomato, onion, and jalapeno) and washed it down with a rum punch (of course).
Our last stop was The Belize Chocolate Store where we each were able to choose a piece of chocolate, cookie, or brownie.
Secret Beach: Everyone raves about Secret Beach being the best on the island. It was located about 20-minutes from our hotel but be prepared for lots of bumps. When we arrived though, it definitely didn’t seem like it was worth all of the hype (though that sentiment may be because we’ve been blessed to have visited some pretty amazing beaches in our life 🙏🏾). There are tons of little beach restaurants with free tables and beach chairs (both in and out of the water). There also was a “waterpark” that really was a few floating bouncy houses. While it was a nice day at the beach, be prepared for weak cocktails and basic food (e.g., nachos, fritters, etc.).
San Pedro town: Located in the southern part of the island, there are tons of restaurants and shops to peruse while walking along the streets of San Pedro. It is also where the famous San Pedro sign can be found.
While walking in San Pedro, we bumped into a political campaign event that looked more like carnival!
Watersports: While we enjoyed the free watersports at our hotel (including paddle boarding and sailing on a hobie cat), Ambergris Caye offers snorkeling, scuba diving, windsurfing, and more…literally any and all water activities that you can think of.
Other popular activities on Ambergris Caye are:
Hol Chan Marine Reserve & Shark Alley: Hol Chan is a popular dive destination that is rich in sea life, including eels, snapper, and coral, while Shark Alley is a protected area where visitors can get up close with nurse sharks and sting rays. There are tons of half day or full day tours going here.
Day trip to Caye Caulker: The island is smaller than Ambergris Caye where tourists can find relaxation at budget prices. Despite its “sleepy” reputation, it is also known for its night life. It is a 30-minute boat ride from Ambergris Caye and the ferry leaves every couple of hours.
The Great Blue Hole: This giant marine sinkhole is part of the larger Belize Barrier Reef Reserve System and attracts recreational scuba divers due to the abundant sea life that lives there. I was still scarred from my one and only scuba diving experience at the Great Barrier Reef in Cairns, Australia (see Australia post) so I passed on the scuba diving here. You can also get a birds-eye view of the Great Blue Hole by flying over it via helicopter or plane but it is pretty pricey.
Overall, we had an amazing time in Belize! Although we took a less intense approach to this trip than my usual itineraries, I love the flexibility that the country offers in terms of activities to engage in (both on the mainland and islands) and its uniqueness compared to its Central American neighbors. Until next time…
Toya's Travels 