Bem-vindo ao Brazil: Land of Bikinis, Beaches, and Baddies

Welcome to Brazil! After more than 40 years of travelling, I finally made it (much to the surprise and shock to my friends and family who thought I had already been!). My oldest son Avery was turning 13 this year so when a really good price for a flight to Rio De Janeiro came up last year ($600 compared to the $1,200 that I typically saw), I jumped on it quickly! Brazil had always been on Avery’s “bucket list” (yes, a child with a bucket list!), so who am I to deny him of his wishes? The hubby was supposed to go but wasn’t able to make it at the last minute, so my sister Shev stepped in and joined us on the trip.

Once I started planning, I became a bit nervous because I read conflicting things online about the paperwork needed to travel to Brazil with children (ranging from having certified birth certificates, needing a trip to the consulate, getting a notarized letter from the parent who wasn’t going, etc.). The list went on and on. While I did get a certified birth certificate and notarized letter, I decided to take my chances and didn’t arrange a trip to the consulate. Thank goodness I didn’t actually need it, nor did I need the other paperwork! After we landed in Rio from a very turbulent 10-hour flight due to the rain and wind, immigration and customs went pretty smoothly and no one asked for any of the paperwork I brought.

Now to the details about the trip!

Hotel:

After researching several hotels in Ipanema and Copacabana (the most popular areas in Rio), there were a few that made the short list: Hilton Copacabana, Novotel Rio de Janeiro Leme, Sol Ipanema, Miramar by Windsor, Miramar Marapendi, Promenade Palladium Leblon, and the Grand Hyatt. Since I was travelling with my kids, I needed a pool and a family room that could fit 4 people. Most hotels have rooftop pools, but family rooms are in short supply so while I originally settled on the Hilton, I was late in actually booking it and someone snatched up the family room I had my eye on. Ultimately, we ended up staying at the Hotel Nacional in Sao Conrado. The upside is that we saved a ton of money because the Sao Conrado area is quite a way from the main action (it would take us at least 30 minutes to get to the Copacabana area from the hotel) but with Uber so cheap (it would cost us less than $10!), it wasn’t a problem. The hotel was a great price ($1500 for 7 nights), had a king bed and sofa bed (so my oldest son could have his own space), and while there was no rooftop, there was a heated pool outside right across from Sao Conrado beach. The downside? The hotel was located right below the Rocinha favela, the biggest favela in Rio. Fortunately, we never had any issues with safety and was at the beach almost every day interacting with the cariocas (locals).

Transportation:

Since I never know if I’m going to get ripped off by taxis at the airport and didn’t want to try and figure out where the Uber pick up was, I had pre-arranged our airport pick-up through KiwiTaxi. I read that the prices were reasonable so decided to give it a shot. Unfortunately, my experience turned out to be a nightmare (including a very delayed pick-up and driving a good ways past the hotel!) and would recommend just using Uber instead.

We ended up taking Uber whenever we needed a ride. It was SUPER cheap and we were typically able to get a ride within a few minutes. For example, it was only $10US from our hotel to Copacabana which was about 30 minutes away. The only downside is that occasionally our rides would get cancelled but we never had a problem just rebooking another one.

Tip: If you are ordering an Uber around dinner time to the Ipanema/Copacabana area, give yourself plenty of time because they were more difficult to get between 6-8pm.

Restaurants to visit:

We were able to try a ton of restaurants over the week we were in Rio and naturally, there were some faves and some duds. First up, the winners!

Satyricon: While this restaurant wasn’t originally on my list, it turned out to be a fan favorite. It is an upscale Mediterranean restaurant that specializes in fresh seafood. Since it was a last-minute find, there were no reservations available, so we just showed up and put ourselves on the waiting list. Surprisingly, the wait was only about 20 minutes which was great given how packed the restaurant was. The menu was pretty extensive so there was a lot to choose from. To start, we ordered fresh oysters, scallops, and calamari. For our entrees, we had the “tagliolini tartufati all’aragosta” which was truffle pasta with lobster; the grilled snapper; and the filet mignon. Everything was SO delicious… even my youngest (CJ) devoured his fries!

It was definitely the type of restaurant that attracts celebrities so we weren’t surprised that we saw a group enter who looked famous, but we couldn’t figure out who they were. I’m terrible at recognizing celebrities…oh well.

The one downside of the restaurant was the service. It was somewhat slow and the entrees came out well after we were done with our appetizers. Given how packed the restaurant was, the slow service wasn’t surprising and the amazing food made up for it anyway.

Zaza Bistro Tropical: Located in Ipanema, this was a super cute restaurant that offers a unique fusion of Brazilian and international flavors. Although there was seating outside, we opted to sit inside which exuded a warm ambiance and was filled with vibrant colors. The link to their menu in English is here: inglês zbt fev 25.docx – Documentos Google.pdf – Google Drive

To start, we had the Tartar Experience (fresh tuna & salmon cubes with oyster and teriyaki sauce, beetroot and carrot croutons & sesame seeds with rice paper), Pork Ribs Kebab with tahini, honey, mint on manioc brioche and tzatziki sauce, and Lamb Croquette with tamarind chutney. While the appetizers were delicious, the kebabs were NOT what you would traditionally think of when you hear the word “kebab” (i.e., there was no stick).

For our entrees, we ordered the Purple Sweet Potato Gnocchi with pork rib rillette and Grana Padano shavings; Grilled Octopus with toasted broccoli, baby potatoes, black olives, paprika aioli, garlic pesto; and the Braised Lamb Palette with spices over yucca potato, homemade ravioli with truffled yogurt sauce, mint pesto and crispy almonds. The prices were reasonable and everything was bursting with flavor. Needless to say, it was a crowd favorite!

When making the reservation, I had included a note that we were celebrating the boys’ birthdays so at the end of the meal, they brought out a dessert with a candle and we sung happy birthday.

Nosso: Being named Best Bar at the 2024 Rio Show de Gastronomia and one of the world’s 50 Best Bars, Nosso was high on our list. Located in Ipanema, it is known for its inventive fusion cuisine. We had 7:30pm reservations but it wasn’t packed at all at that time (though it did start to fill up quickly a bit later when we were leaving). The restaurant has three floors, and we were seated on the rooftop terrace (though after a while it was still so hot outside that I wished I sat in the comfort of the AC on the second floor instead!). To drink, I ordered an Amazon old fashioned which was next-level delicious. It was hard to decide which appetizers we wanted so we ended up ordering alot of them, including the Duroc Pork Gyoza dumplings (it was so good we ended up ordering two more servings!); the Champs Élysees Toast (caramelized brioche, faux foie mousse, peach coulis, maraschino cherries, fleur de sel); Artisanal Burrata with jamón, caramelized figs in balsamic and brown sugar, arugula, grape tomatoes, served with sourdough; and Tori Karaage (fried chicken with kimchi maple, kewpie mayo, and scallions). Since our eyes were bigger than our bellies, we still ordered entrees and decided on the Capellini and Shrimp (shrimp, beurre blanc sauce, pangratatto), and Glazed Octopus with fried rice, garlic chives, carrots, moyashi, Japanese mayo, peanuts, furikake, and scallions. Everything we ordered was a flavor explosion in every bite…the only dish that kind of let us down a bit was the Champs Élysees Toast that wasn’t as flavorful as the other items we ate. In addition to the food, the service was really attentive…to the point where our waiter bent over backwards to find my sister the tequila she inquired about (only she would order tequila in the land of cachaça!).

Churrascaria Palace: This was the first restaurant we went to on our first night in Rio and it definitely set the bar for the rest of the trip! I’d been to ‘churrascarias’ in New York (where they bring the meats around to the table and slice it right in front of you) but was excited to eat at the real deal. They had the standard buffet with cold items, including salads, sushi, and oysters but the star of the show was the parade of endless meats! We had prime rib, spider picanha, steak, ribs, lamb, and more. We were sooooooooo stuffed when we left. I would highly recommend making reservations because the place gets packed (and for good reason!).

Fogo De Chao: With locations all across the US, South America, and the Middle East, I had been plotting to go to this restaurant for awhile so what better opportunity than in Brazil! We happened to be in the Botafogo area where the restaurant was located so I figured now was my chance to finally eat there (even though we were a tad underdressed!). With breathtaking views overlooking Sugarloaf Mountain (and a choice between indoor or outdoor seating), it was the perfect place to get some real Brazilian barbecue. Even though we arrived at noon right when they opened, the place filled up really quickly. And after a few minutes there, I understood why it was so popular. The service was excellent, and the food was even better! After a trip to the salad bar filled with antipasti, cured meats, aged cheeses, and specialty salads, we were ready for the meats! One after the other, we were offered succulent pork belly, sausage, pork loin, pork chops, bacon-wrapped chicken, beef tenderloin, sirloin steak, ribeye, and ribs. Everything was juicy and cooked perfectly! It literally melted in your mouth. And of course, we couldn’t pass up cocktails that were made tableside. I had a passion fruit caipirinha that was divine!!

Marius Degustare: Described on their website as “a fine dining experience that successfully marries traditional Brazilian cuisine with modern culinary techniques”, this restaurant definitely lived up to its TripAdvisor reviews. Located in Leme (close to Copacabana), the decor is extremely eclectic and teeters on the verge of cheesy. Everywhere we turned were different trinkets, bobbles, and gadgets all over the restaurant (literally from the ceiling to the floor) that look like they were looted from a pirate ship. And on each table, they place a flag to represent where each table was from. Loved seeing all of the various countries represented! Food-wise, it has a very similar set-up to Churrascaria Palace and Fogo de Chao with waiters continuously serving meats but here, they also serve seafood. They also have a full buffet station with a variety of seafood and stews. The food was pretty good but I think we were a bit “churrascaria’d out” since we visited at the end of the trip 🙂

Duds:

Masi: Located in our hotel, we tried this Japanese/Mediterranean restaurant on a day when we didn’t feel like making the trek to Ipanema or Copacabana. To be honest, nothing about this restaurant was appealing. Even though we had reservations based on the breathtaking decor, we still had to wait about 20-30 minutes for a table. Then, when we were finally seated, the service was TERRIBLE and extremely slow. I still had high hopes for the food, but when the food and drinks came out, that optimism quickly dissipated as everything was subpar. We ordered the dumplings, caramelized shrimp popcorn in sweet chili, Australian bread bruschetta with filet mignon strips and burrata cream, scallop carpaccio with roe and fruit oil (the only items that actually tasted decent!), and fettuccine with king crab and shrimp (which was swimming in so much sauce that it was hard to enjoy). Avery always says the fanciest restaurants always let us down the most on vacay! 

• La Maison: We had lunch here before relaxing on Copacabana beach. I had high expectations because it came highly recommended by a mommy travel blogger that I follow. Unfortunately, my expectations were too high. While the service was great, the food was mediocre. We didn’t have anything fancy…just shrimp, filet mignon, beef bites, ceviche, cheeseburger, and fries and mashed potatoes. Everything was just ok but nothing to write home about or go back twice for.

• Terrasas Brazil: We were starving after visiting Christ the Redeemer and Sugarloaf Mountain, and this place came recommended from our tour guide (and it seemed like the only restaurant in the area). The line was extremely long and the wait time would’ve been over an hour as we were 19th in line but because they give certain groups preference/priority – like those with kids – we only waited about 10 minutes. It turns out that nearly everything on the menu was fried and really heavy and all of the dishes we ended up ordering, were very mediocre.

• Eat Rio Food Tour: I always try to start my travels with a food tour so we started our trip with the Eat Rio Food Tour. Starting at 10am, we spent the next 5 hours walking the areas of Glória, Lapa, Centro, and Flamengo tasting the most exotic and tasty fruits, street food, and drinks. Our tour guide Ingrid was amazing and every single item we tasted was delicious. We were extremely full by the end of the tour. Here is a breakdown of everything we ate:
  • Street Market: Pão de Queijo (tapioca cheese bread), Coxinha (chicken croquette), Caldo de cana (sugar-cane juice with fresh lime), Tapioca (tapioca pancakes), Manga Palmer (large sweet mango with no strings), Caju (cashew apple), Atemoya (a hybrid in the custard apple family), Jaca (Jackfruit), Acerola (sour red berries), Maxixe (spiky, lemony cucumber), Seriguela (red mombin), Pimenta Biquinhos (pickled chilli peppers)
  • Tacacá do Norte: Açaí (fruit pulp of açaí berry, slightly sweetened with guaraná syrup), Suco de Cupuaçú (juice of the Amazonian fruit which changes flavor as you drink it), Cachaça de Jambú (the really weird alcoholic drink that makes your tongue tingle!)
  • Nova Capela: Limonada Suíça (traditional limeade drink), Caipirinha (Brazil’s favorite cocktail), Bolinho de bacalhau (salt cod and potato croquettes), Bolinho de feijoada (black beans, bacon and collard greens in a bite-sized croquette), Cabrito assado com batatas coradas, arroz brócolis e alho (roast lamb served with roast potatoes and broccoli rice)
  • Belmonte Lapa (Caipirinhas): Kiwi e lichia (Kiwi and lychee), Seriguela e maracujá (red mombin and passion fruit)
  • Armazém Senado: Cachaça Gabriela (cinnamon and clove cachaça)
  • Labuta: Mate (Brazilian yerba mate tea), Caipirinha, Croquetes (oxtail croquettes), Torresmo (crispy pork belly pieces), Pudim (creamy condensed milk caramel pudding), and Brigadeiro (chocolate and condensed milk sweet, served on a spoon)

• Ginga Tropical: I really wanted to go to a “samba street party” also known as “blocos” or “Cordões (especially in Pedra Do Sal on a Monday night which is the biggest street party in Rio), however, I was a bit concerned that the loud noise and big crowd would be too much for CJ. Since that was off the list, I found a Brazilian samba & folklore show so that we could still experience samba in a more controlled, low-key environment. Located in Teatro Fashion Mall (which was a 2-minute Uber ride from our hotel), the Ginga Tropical show performs 3 nights a week and begins at 9pm. It was only about an hour and a half but was an explosion of various musicians and dancers showcasing the colors, music, and dance of the various regions of Brazil. While it gave touristy vibes at times, it was a fun experience that everyone enjoyed (even Avery who went on the stage dancing…and he HATES to dance!). I would definitely recommend if you have young family members in tow; otherwise, Pedra Do Sal might be better for a more authentic experience!

• Caves & Waterfalls Tour: As someone who loves adventurous, active excursions, this tour immediately caught my eye—and it didn’t disappoint. Our day began around 8 a.m. when our guide picked us up from the hotel. After a quick stop to collect another couple, we headed into the lush expanse of the Tijuca Forest, one of the largest urban rainforests in the world. The forest is alive with nature: winding trails, tropical foliage, and wildlife sightings ranging from howler monkeys to ocelots—and over 300 species of birds if you’re into birdwatching! We trekked to a couple of waterfalls (more like baby waterfalls, but still refreshing), and explored some mysterious bat caves along the way. The real highlight came at the end: a stop at Vista Chinesa, a historic lookout point marked by a Chinese-style pagoda gifted to Brazil. From there, the panoramic view of Rio was incredible: Christ the Redeemer, Sugarloaf Mountain, and the sprawling city below all unfolded before us. While the tour wasn’t the most unforgettable experience we’ve ever had, Avery and I appreciated the chance to be active and immerse ourselves in nature for a few hours. The entire tour lasted about four hours, striking a nice balance between hiking, exploring, bathing in waterfalls, and sightseeing. Although CJ stayed back at the hotel with my sister, this tour is kid-friendly with children as young as four able to join and they tailor the experience accordingly.

• Christ the Redeemer & Sugarloaf Mountain: We booked an early access tour to Christ the Redeemer and Sugarloaf Mountain because I figured both would be crowded given their popularity as Brazil’s top tourist attractions and I wanted to beat the crowds. Unfortunately, that attempt was in vain because even with the 7:30am start time, it was still extremely crowded. Our first stop on the tour was Christ the Redeemer (also known as Cristo Redentor Rio de Janeiro). Located at the top of Corcovado Mountain, the van dropped us as far up as we were able to go (you can also hike or go by train) and then we took a series of escalators to reach the statue. It was even more impressive in person, towering over us and we spent some time walking around the perimeter in awe of its immense stature. You don’t need more than 30 minutes there and when we left, the line was even longer (if you can believe it could even get longer!).

• After we made our way down, we headed to Sugarloaf Mountain whose name comes from its resemblance to the traditional shape of refined sugar loaves used in the 16th century. While we were waiting on line, there was a guy coming around offering what looked and tasted like iced tea (though I’m still not sure if this was just a random occurrence or a regular appearance). We then took a short ride to the base at Praia Vermelha and then took a series of cable cars that took us first to Morro da Urca, then to the summit. The ride itself was fun, offering views of Rio, Guanabara Bay, and the Atlantic Ocean. At the top, there were shops where you could buy everything from ice cream to soccer jerseys. The views were nice but the 30-minutes we were slated to spend there was the perfect amount of time.

• Selaron stairs: Our intention was to visit the famous Escaladeria Selaron, Arcos de Lapas, and Santa Teresa in the same morning (which seemed totally doable), however, in reality, we got to 1 out of 3 of those places. It was extremely HOT outside so I had very little desire to stay outside longer than needed. Located between Lapa and Santa Teresa, we took an Uber to Rua Manuel Carneiro where the Selaron stairs are. Created by Jorge Selarón, the project began as a simple renovation of the broken stairs outside his house which he began decorating with bright tiles, mirrors, and ceramics—most of which he collected or received from visitors around the world, eventually covering 215 steps with over 2,000 tiles from more than 60 countries. The first things we saw was a random line to take a photo at the bottom of the stairs (where it says Rio De Janeiro) but after joining it for 10 minutes, we decided to just climb further up instead of waiting for an hour. We continued to climb up the stairs until we reached the top but there isn’t much (in case you wanted to save yourself the trip).

• AquaRio: After reading about South America’s largest marine aquarium, I thought the kids would love to visit. Even though we were able to see marine life up close, including rays, colorful reef fish, and sharks, it was definitely not as impressive as we thought it would be. One of the highlights was walking through the underwater tunnel and being able to watch sharks, turtles, and schools of fish swim right over our head. Another highlight was stumbling into a carnival-like atmosphere at the entrance as we were leaving. There were dancers, stilt walkers, costumes and music that made us want to stay a little longer.

• Museum of Tomorrow (Museu do Amanhã): On our final day, we went to this museum that explores the present and imagines the future. Even the building itself is a really cool shaped-structure! It was pretty easy to buy tickets once we entered so we were walking around the museum in no time. There were interactive exhibits, digital installations, and immersive environments at every turn, including a robot walking around. We spent a couple of hours there and honestly, don’t think you need more time than that.

• Shopping: The two most famous brands in Brazil are probably Havaianas and Farm Rio. Havaianas stores are everywhere you turn so we indulged in picking up a few newly released sandals. We also saw a FarmRio store in the airport but wasn’t able to stop and shop (which was probably for the best!).

We also walked to Saara market (Rio de Janeiro’s largest open-air market) with over 800 stores and sold everything from souvenirs, bootleg jerseys, electronics, and carnival wear.

Although we were able to fit a lot in over the week we were there, there were a few activities that we did not get to do, including:

• Walking around the Santa Teresa neighborhood and riding the tram (Rio’s last authentic streetcar)
• Little Africa: Once the main arrival point for enslaved Africans, it became the first predominantly Afro-Brazilian community. Now, there are cultural centers honoring Afro-Brazilian history through art, music, and dance, and where you can experience authentic salsa alongside locals.
• Ilha Grande: It is stunning, car-free island in Brazil’s Costa Verde—just off the coast from Rio de Janeiro (2 hour speedboat ride or 3-4 hour bus ride from Rio). You can visit different beaches, and go snorkeling, kayaking, or scuba diving.
• Day trip to Buzios: Known as the Saint‑Tropez of Brazil
• Arraial do Cabo (2 hours from Rio)
• Football match
• Hiking to Telegraph Rock (Trilha Pedra do Telegrafo)
• Caipirinha Making & Cachaca Tasting Tour
• African Heritage Gastronomy & Musicality Experience

Beaches:

Copacabana Beach: After eating at a nearby restaurant, we walked there and got chairs and an umbrella from one of the guys there. We paid 150 reals (which felt like a ripoff but I was too hot to negotiate or argue about the price). The water is not that great in color and a bit rough but the kids didn’t care. They jumped right in! Copacabana is just as popular and filled with colorful characters as what I read. Even though it was the middle of the week, the beach was packed with locals and tourists alike. There were tons of vendors selling shrimp, corn, caipirinhas, cotton candy, sunglasses, massages…you name it, they probably had someone selling it or could find it for you!

Sao Conrado Beach: Located across the street from our hotel, this beach was mostly filled with locals presumably from the Rocinho favela. It was SO much cheaper than Copacabana Beach. Two chairs and an umbrella only cost us 35 reals compared to the 150 reals at Copacabana! They also had vendors walking around selling shrimp, corn, drinks, etc. Even though the sea water was a better color blue and looked much more inviting than Copacabana, the waves were really rough so not that great for kids (though Avery did enjoy wave jumping).

Red beach / Vermelha beach: Located at the bottom of Sugarloaf Mountain, the beach looked beautiful but was super crowded, so we actually didn’t end up staying. Definitely worth checking out though if you are looking for a place to relax after Sugarloaf.

We had an amazing time in Rio and definitely picked up some tips along the way:

• Traffic is insane, especially during peak times.
• Currency exchange rate is about $5-$6 reals to US$1.
• Use Uber for everything. It is super cheap. We took it to the airport an hour away and it was only $20.
• Pricing on Copacabana beach is very different than Sao Conrado beach. 35 reals for two chairs and umbrella vs. 150 reals on Copa beach.
• Portuguese is so similar to Spanish and Italian (duh, the whole love languages thing!) so I was able to get by and understand some things. Note: most Brazilians do NOT speak English. It was ALSO interesting that the ‘d’ is pronounced as a ‘g’ so “Bon dia” sounds like “Bon gia”.
• There is a lounge in the Rio airport but the line to get in was somewhat long (probably because there was only one person at the front desk!). The food options were plentiful though and there was an area for kids with a game system and a kid-sized toy car that can keep them busy.
• Not a tip but as always, there was drama on the flight where some lady hit another lady while she was putting away her bag. I never can escape it but for these views in Rio, it was worth the drama!